When asked about their first impressions of Guangzhou, the capital city of Guangdong Province and the centre of South China, most people often give a similar answer, such as "It's a metropolis, a modern metropolis." I completely agree with this response, but I must continue with a further question: do you think Guangzhou is only the modern metropolitan city it appears to be?

According to historical documents, Guangzhou is an ancient city founded more than 2,220 years ago when Emperor Ying Zheng (Qinshihuang) unified China for the first time in history, subsequently establishing the site of today's administrative region of Guangzhou in 214 BC. As one of the most important portals and international business hubs on China's southern coast and the starting point of the Maritime Silk Road, Guangzhou used to go by the Romanized name of Canton, given to it by foreign merchants who were attracted here not only for business, but also by the historic Oriental culture.

Let's have a look at the following caption from my two-part postcard series depicting the "Ten Tourist Attractions in Canton" to see how foreigners scheduled their itineraries from Hong Kong to Guangzhou almost a century ago.

 

 
"The principal sights of Canton, the largest city of South China, may be visited in a day. Leaving Hong Kong in the evening by one of the steamers of the Hong Kong, Canton & Macao Steamboat Co. Ltd, we arrive at the Canton Wharf about 1 o'clock next morning. It is recommended to engage a guide here at once, as without one, it is impossible to find one's way in the Chinese city. If one intends to remain for a day only, it will be the best to arrange, beforehand, with the Manager of the Victoria Hotel, for tiffin (light lunch) to be sent to the Five Storey Pagoda. The most important temples of Canton are: the Temple of the 500 Genii, the Kun Yam Temple, the Chun-Ka-Chie Temple (Ancestral Temple of the Chun Family), the Temple of the 5 Genii, all of which are well worthy of a visit, as well as the Flowery Pagoda. The Five Storey Pagoda, in the vicinity of the latter, is the large North Gate of the ancient Canton city wall. All these places are generally visited before tiffin, which latter, should be ready at the Five Storey Pagoda as mentioned above. In the afternoon, the rice-paper picture painters, kingfisher-feather workers, old embroidery dealers and lacquer ware shops should be visited, followed by the Tung Shing ivory & sandal wood workers and lastly the Nam Hoi Prison. On the way through the city, the long signboards of the shops and the Chinese engaged openly in their work inside are very interesting. Seen from the steamer on leaving Canton, the beautiful French Cathedral in the middle of the populous Chinese city affords a peculiar view. The fee for a guide is 1 Dollar for half-a-day and 2 Dollars for a whole day for one person. For several persons, the usual charge is 1 Dollar per person. Chair hire is 50 Cents per coolie, and it is customary to provide a chair for the guide at the same time. The small expenses connected with viewing the temples, pagodas etc. should not exceed 2 Dollars. The Victoria Hotel is recommended. The steamers leave Canton generally between 5 and 6 p.m., arriving at Hong Kong about midnight."

Of course, there are many more interesting and historic sites in Guangzhou than the ones mentioned above. If you wish to learn more about them, pay close attention to my special column at Life of Guangzhou as I take you on a tour back in time through my antique postcard collection.

(Written by Wilson Shengwen Mai and revised by Stephen Roach)