Life of Guangzhou - About Xiguan

Xiguan refers to Guangzhou's Liwan district. With its north to Xicun, south to the Pearl River, east to Renmin Lu and west to the Xiaobei River, Xiguan was initially located in western Guangzhou, outside the West City Gate, during the Ming and Qing dynasties (1368 AD – 1911 AD).

Main door of a typical Guangzhou Xi Guan residence. (Lifeofguangzhou.com)

According to historic maps, this old part of Guangzhou was once divided into Shang Xiguan (Upper Xiguan) and Xia Xiguan (Lower Xiguan). Here, the famous Shiba Fu (old neighborhood) and Shisan Hang (business district) were built in the late Ming Dynasty. The current Cantonese residential communities of Baohua Street, Fengyuan Street and Duobao Street were established in the middle and late Qing Dynasty (early 20th century).

Typical Cantonese food can be found there, including the famous Fried River Snails, Shahe Rice Noodles, Chashao Buns and Tingzai Porridge. The area is also full of traditional Cantonese architecture, such as the commonly seen Xiguan residences.

The Qilou buildings at the roadside of the Shang Xia Jiu Pedestrian Street, a shopping place in Liwan District of Guangzhou. (file photo)

Liwan, the old district of Guangzhou is filled with local architecture (Qilou buildings and bustling alleys), Cantonese Opera (the Bahe House, home of the original opera style), ancient foreign trade (the Shisan Hang trading center, active for centuries) as well as traditional Cantonese delicacies and morning tea. These mainstays of Cantonese life are all to be found in this crowded and centuries-old matrix of streets and alleys.

The streets are narrow, old, and not very well planned, but each is filled with character and has many stories to tell.

Wholesale markets selling medicinal herbs (such as the Qingping market), clothing, accessories, electronics and other merchandise are scattered throughout.

In 2005 the district's border was expanded to cover the original outskirts of Fangcun District just across the river. Fangcun's extensive flower markets and riverside "bar street" add further appeal to Liwan.

This old district is mainly inhabited by local Cantonese, not known for an abundance of foreigners.

(by Carrot Chan, Ronald Li, Stephen Roach)